I was standing in my kitchen the other day, doing dishes and listening to the radio, when I heard Neal Conan announce that “the maker of Twinkies and Ho-Hos has filed for bankruptcy.” I still can’t get over the strangeness of that remark. It’s like finding out that Santa Claus is an alcoholic, or that the Keebler Elf has a veneral disease. And it made me think about how important those Hostess cakes – and all soft baked goods – were to me as a child, how they became my version of the “secret eatings” MFK Fisher writes about. Except that I was not allowed to eat any of these things, and so they were even more furtive than secret eating: they became obsessions which haunted me day and night, teasing me with their voluptuous charms but never letting me have my way with them.
Which perhaps explains the rather unsavory habit I had back then of squeezing Hostess cupcakes and Twinkies in the supermarket aisle, as a form of protest and revenge. I am ashamed to admit that I got an almost psychotic thrill from feeling their round spongey bodies smoosh and flatten under my fingertips (I thought of this when I got my first mammogram at age 40, what torture those innocent cakes must have went through under my grubby little hands).
It might also explain why I felt compelled, at the tender age of six, to break into a neighbor’s house and steal a loaf of Roman Meal bread.
I wish I could say it was a random act of foolishness, but in fact the whole thing was premeditated. I even had an accomplice – a scrawny girl named Peggy who lived around the corner and went to my school. Peggy had ears that stuck out, and a sad gray face that reminded me of a frog – but she followed instructions well and wasn’t a tattle-tale. God only knows why she was willing to follow me and wait outside while I climbed into an open window to steal a loaf of bread, but she did.
It was a beautiful Saturday afternoon in Northern Virginia. Dogwood, daffodils, and cherry blossoms, like illustrations from a children’s book. Peggy lay on the grass next to me, atop a small hill which faced down onto my neighbor’s kitchen windows. We were both itchy and hot from the grass and it was hard to stay focused on our stake-out, and not keep turning over to lie on our backs and look up at the sky with its edible clouds. Finally we saw the ragged blond top of the neighbor boy’s head as he followed his parents out of the house and into their brown and blue station wagon. Mostly what I remember about that boy is that kept me in a steady supply of Saltines. Saltines were my methadone in those days, when I couldn’t get my hands on the hard stuff, by which I mean of course, the soft stuff, of Wonder Bread and so on. The boys’ handsome loaves of Roman Meal remained untouched on the counter while the salty, sharp-edged crackers tore up the flesh inside my mouth, as I ate them whole, one after the other, while we sat watching Gilligan’s Island on his parents’ La-Z-Boy.
I thought of that now, pulling myself up onto the ledge and then pushing open the already ajar window, stepping inside and carefully placing my bare feet on either side of the sink. The kitchen was quiet except for the sound of the refrigerator humming. I was aware that I was breaking into someone’s house and I really shouldn’t be doing this. But the bread was too tempting to forego. I thought of my mother’s hard square German pumpernickel, which crumbled like tree bark and left a sour dark taste in your mouth for hours afterwards. No, I had to have the real thing (by which I mean, the fake thing, the commercial thing, the thing made in a factory, designed by evil men to make me fall to my knees before its empty calories.)
Stealing is the easiest thing in the world, when no one is around to catch you. All I had to do was pick up the loaf by its little plastic choker, step back up on the sink, and then jump out of the window – almost hitting Peggy, and causing her to screech with surprise.
I fell on the ground and rolled a bit before standing up, then I grabbed Peggy’s hand and we ran up the hill and behind a row of apartments and up another hill, to the farthest tip of our housing development, finally landing under a large maple tree. We were out of breath, sweating and laughing, pulling open the bread’s package and dividing up the pieces without talking. I rolled the pieces into little balls and stuffed them in my mouth, feeling their glutinous slime dissolve and slide heavily down my throat. I ate one, then two, but couldn’t finish the third. I was already full.
There was still over half a loaf of bread when Peggy stood up to leave – her mother was calling. It was time for dinner, the afternoon sun had slid down and was now casting shadows around us. And I realized in that moment what a horrible, tragic mistake I had made. How foolish I had been to believe that a whole loaf of bread eaten at once would bring me happiness. I was a thief, and the worst part was I couldn’t even keep my prize! I couldn’t bring it home with me (my mother would find it, she had ways) and leaving it here it would just rot. My euphoria turned to misery on the spot, and I jammed the bread under a tree root, angry at it for seducing me. I didn’t want a loaf of bread under a tree, I wanted that bread to be on my kitchen counter at home, to have whenever I wanted, given to me by a mother who understood my secret eating, and wanted to share it with me.





